Norfolk, 24th April - 1st May 2010

05/05/10

I watched the weather forecast anxiously for weeks beforehand. Would the wind ever get out of the north, and swing round to a nice balmy southerly direction? It did, just in time. After an easy ten hour drive I arrived at my self catering cottage (Wood Farm, Edgefield, nr Holt, and highly recommended). It was my third visit there in the last two years, so I was soon settled in. I had picked up my first year tick on the way, when I called in at Abbey Farm, Flitcham. A few Egyptian Geese were there as usual, but there was no sign of the Little Owl I was hoping for.

Next morning, I was up at first light, and headed for Kelling Quags, not far from Cley. The hedge lined track down to the small pool and the beach was alive with birdsong – Blackcap, Whitethroat, Sedge Warbler and Grasshopper Warbler. Unusually, there was nothing of much interest on the pool or on the sea, but the surrounding grasslands were busy with Wheatears. The shower clouds were building up, so I headed for Stiffkey where I knew I could use the car as a hide, overlooking the salt marshes. A few Little Egrets were lurking in the creeks, and further out, small flocks of dark-bellied Brent Geese. The rain cleared, and I went for a walk in the hot sunshine to check out some flooded fields nearby. 8 Avocets were nesting there, along with numerous other commoner water birds. More warblers sang in the bushes, including a Lesser Whitethroat. A long walk to Stiffkey Fen produced only a fine looking Ruff, coming into breeding plumage. The weather was holding up so I decided on a stroll along the East Bank at Cley. Bearded Tits were “pinging” all over the place, and soon came into to view. Several Marsh Harriers floated across the reedbeds, and I heard my first Cuckoo of the year. I was keen to find my first UK Nightingale, so I went to check out Salthouse Heath, one of the recommended places to encounter them. A long fruitless walk across the heath was practically birdless apart from a manic Chiffchaff. Back to the car, and I tried another spot on the heath. This time, as soon as I switched off the engine I could hear a Nightingale in full song. And it was still daylight. I got out and went to track down the source of the song. Of course, they are very difficult to actually see, and I had to be content with being serenaded. So ended a fantastic first full day. By 8.00pm I was fed, watered and ready for bed.

My next target species was Stone Curlew, so I was off early to Weeting Heath. The hide was empty (not a good sign) but I settled down to scan the heath. By sheer good luck, I soon found myself staring down the scope at a Stone Curlew’s head. I assumed there was a body attached underneath, because the head moved occasionally, allowing me to see the big yellow staring eye. That was all I was to see. I heard a Green Woodpecker, laughing as they do, probably at me. Nearby is RSPB Lakenheath. I had never been there before, but soon found it. I had a chat with the very nice lady at reception, and she told me all about the birds and where to see them. When she mentioned Hobbies, everything else went out of my head, and I couldn’t wait to make a start. But it’s a big reserve, and I had to take my time. More Marsh Harriers and warblers kept me company as I made my way to the farthest part of the reedbeds. And there they were, up to a dozen of them, my first ever Hobbies. I watched them as they caught insects high over the reeds, transferring them from talon to beak with barely a break in their flight. What a sight! Then, to make things even better, a Bittern boomed. On the way back to the car park, I noted a Common Tern.

Another early start saw me at Horsey Gap, an area of grassy dunes and scrub. An hour later, three good birds had found their way onto my burgeoning year list – Stonechat, Ring Ouzel and Common Crane. The Ring Ouzel was a cracking male, the Crane a very high flying bird circling upwards until it became invisible. A slow drive, checking fields for more Cranes, and I arrived at Hickling Broad. By now it was really rather warm, but I decided I might as well do the place justice, and set off on a longish, slowish walk. There was lots to see and hear, but not a lot that I hadn’t already encountered. Still, it was nice to be shouted at by several Cetti’s Warblers. I nearly missed a pair of Black Swans, as they sailed into a bay and out of sight. And yes, they are on my year list. It’s my list and I make the rules. My final place for the day was How Hill, a privately owned reserve, and what a beauty. It’s not big, and a good path leads you through wet woodland, past a scrape and a broad. It wasn’t until I neared the end of the walk that I found something of real interest – a small flock of tits, including a few Willow Tits. Luckily, they were in singing mood, so I was able to confirm the ID.

Titchwell is a popular RSPB reserve, so I wanted to be there before the crowds. I was, and it was still quite cool. It was also quite disappointing. The only birds I added to my list were a Little Tern, and a Reed Warbler, that obligingly popped out onto a reed stem for a minute as it sang. I moved along the coast to Holme Dunes reserve. It was still only 9 o’clock, and it wasn’t open. So I had a wander around the dunes waiting for someone to appear to open the gate. More warblers everywhere. Finally, the reserve opened, and I went into the visitor centre to get my permit. It is a Norfolk Wildlife Trust reserve, but as I am a member, admission was free. A lot of the places I visited are NWT reserves, and most of them are admission free. What a load of good work they do. The warden told me about the flock of 25 Yellow Wagtails that had been there – yesterday. Nevertheless, I quickly marched off to have a look for them. Find the cattle, find the wags. And I did, just like that. After a walk around the rest of the place, I thought I might as well have a look at Holme Marsh, only a mile or so away. While I was in one of the three hides (with cushions) a harrier came floating across the reed bed, circled round and disappeared. I’m convinced it was a Montagu’s Harrier. Just wish I’d had my camera to hand, but I was fed up carting all the heavy gear about in the heat. I had a chippy tea in Wells, where I saw my first Swifts of the year, high over the town as the sky darkened and the rain approached.

One of my favourite places in Norfolk is Sculthorpe Moor. It belongs to the Hawk and Owl Trust, and consists of a lot of boardwalk through wet woodland, with three hides overlooking forest, marsh and a scrape. I hadn’t gone far when I heard the “strangled chicken” call of a Golden Pheasant. Presently, I found it, lurking in a thicket. They really are the most secretive of birds. I met one of the staff and told him about the harrier I had seen the previous day, and he was able to confirm that my ID was very probably correct. Right place, right description, bingo! At one of the hides I was entertained by a pair of Bullfinches feeding in a seed tray, with little mousy things scurrying about beneath it picking up the scraps. Then it was off to Pensthorpe – the setting for the BBC’s Springwatch programme. It was a good £7.50 worth, as I found me a Little Ringed Plover and a Marsh Tit, as well as all the tame and weird and wonderful water birds. They don’t go on my list, just in case you are wondering.

For my final day, I was up really early, and set off on a farmland walk. Still hoping for Nuthatch and Turtle Dove, neither of which I was to find. But it was a superb walk, through Bayfield Estate, fields, oak woods, and along a riverside. I don’t think I have ever seen and heard so many Blackcaps together, as well as all the other woodland species. After that I needed a second breakfast, so I paid a visit to the fancy NWT visitor centre at Cley, and indulged myself. Later, I drove round to the beach car park, and just sat and watched the world go by. Along with which, there was a steady stream of Swallows, Swifts, Wheatears and terns, all heading west. I took a wander along to the nearby hide, where there was a flock of some 20 Black-tailed Godwits, all in brick red summer plumage, a marvellous sight. The sightings board at the centre had mentioned a couple of Wood Sandpipers, so I kept my eyes open. On the way back to the car, I spotted something interesting, along way off in the marsh. I got the scope on to it, but it kept disappearing in the vegetation and up the creeks. At last I managed a better view, and confirmed it was a Wood Sandpiper. Three other local birders had seen what I was doing, and together we re-found the bird, and also a second one, this time giving much better views. Another bird on the sightings board was Whinchat, and as I drove towards the place where it had been seen, I could see a couple of cars stopped, and people looking. I stopped too, because I had seen the bird, just briefly, but enough. What a lovely bird! Hopefully I’ll soon be seeing more of them nearer home.

Talking of home, I was up and away at half past five next morning, and watching a Barn Owl at the roadside as I left Holt. Nice finish.