Where to watch birds in north-east Scotland
06/06/09
Access on foot to most of Scotland is free and unrestricted. But remember that this right also carries responsibilities, so if you are unfamiliar with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, please have a look at the relevant website: the address is in my LINKS section.For maps of some of the areas, see the Galleries page.
This section is devoted to the many places throughout the north-east of Scotland where excellent birding may be found. There is a great deal of useful information already available on several websites, so I do not propose to repeat what is there, but rather to give some ideas of my own, based on my experiences, and to provide some useful tips for the visiting birder. The list of sites described is not exhaustive. In fact, the whole north east, apart from a few key sites, is very much underwatched, so feel free to explore any likely looking places.
1. Findhorn Bay The road from Kinloss to Findhorn runs along the east side of Findhorn Bay. You may have to stop at traffic lights to allow large RAF planes to land or take off. There is a hide and car park situated between the road and the bay (it's clearly signposted) but sadly it appears to be used for activities other than birding. If the tide is out, the birds will be a long way off, and in the afternoon you will be looking into the light. Nevertheless, it can be a good spot for waders. From there, continue on through the village of Findhorn (a one-way system) to the car park beyond the yachting club. Just over the dune is the sea, a great place for wintering ducks. I have seen huge flocks of immaculate Long-tailed Ducks from here, and scoters are also regular. There is a toilet block which I have never seen open, and for non-birders, a visit to the Findhorn Foundation http://www.findhorn.org/ will pass an hour or two. It is, shall I say, different, and the cafe is nice.
2. Lossiemouth The estuary of the River Lossie is excellent for waders. Follow signs to the East Beach, and from the car parks opposite the caravan site, you can watch the gulls and waders without leaving your car. Popular with dog walkers, it can be frustrating, but the birds are accustomed to being disturbed and generally make a quick return. The extensive pine plantation to the east is a good spot for Crested Tits, as well as other woodland species. Although it should be said that Crested Tits are never guaranteed, and can be hard to find.
3. Spey Bay The mouth of the River Spey can be viewed from either side. To reach the west side, leave the A96 at Mosstodloch and follow signs to Kingston. To access the east side, leave the A96 at Fochabers and follow signs to Spey Bay. The only bridge over the Spey between Fochabers and the sea is a disused railway bridge, accessible for pedestrians, and this can make a useful walk, up one side, across, down, and then all the way back. There is a car park at Kingston overlooking the estuary, good for ducks, and a walk westwards along the shingle beach can be done. On the east side at Spey Bay, there is a large car park overlooking the river. This is a regular spot for watching Ospreys fishing. The Tugnet Ice House, and cafe are worth a visit.
4.Troup Head Troup Head is an RSPB reserve, and is Scotland's only mainland gannetry. For details of birds to be seen, and directions to the site, see http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/t/trouphead/index.asp
5. Fraserburgh The area around The Broch, as it is known locally, is good for gulls and waders. To the west of the town, is Phingask shore, a rocky and pebbly shoreline about 1km in length, with a road and path running along side. Winter waders and gulls are the targets here, with Mediterranean Gulls present in winter 2007/8. The harbour in the town is a hotspot for Glaucous and Iceland Gulls in the winter, and to the east is the promenade from where sea ducks and divers can be watched.
6 Loch of Strathbeg, and surrounding area. Another RSPB reserve, well worth the effort of getting there. There are four hides, plus visitor centre with toilets and observation room. Ample car parking overlooking feeders, good for Tree Sparrows. For all the information, visit the RSPB website http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/l/lochofstrathbeg/index.asp
7 Peterhead and surrounding area
Peterhead is a very busy white fish port, with an extensive harbour. The chief attraction for birders is gulls, with regular winter visits from Glaucous, Iceland, Bonaparte's and Mediterranean Gulls. Other rarer gulls have turned up on occasion. But it is a big area to cover, and there are many Herring and Black-backed Gulls to sift through. It's probably best to find somewhere to park, and go for a walk. If you do decide to drive, you can go past the fish market (you'll now be on Keith Inch, Scotland's most easterly point) and on to the piers and jetties where many of the boats tie up. Remember it is a working environment, so watch where you stop and don't get in the way! There will also be Eiders and seals to look at, and some of the modern trawlers are quite impressive.
Just to the north of the harbour, is Battery Park, where there is a small area to park on, with a wall to break any onshore breeze. It is a good sea watching spot. From there, you can make your way on foot, or by car, to the River Ugie estuary at Buchanhaven. Park in the Golf Club car park, where there is a footbridge across the river. There is a regular assembly of gulls, swans and ducks, all waiting to be fed. They are seldom disappointed. A drake Mandarin has been there for the last year, and waders such as Turnstones, Purple Sandpipers, Redshanks and Lapwings winter there. They are quite tolerant of people, and provide a good opportunity for photography.
8 Bullers of Buchan
This well known landmark is south of Peterhead, off the Cruden Bay road. It is well signposted. Park in the car park, and walk towards the sea. When you reach the top of the cliffs, turn left, past a row of cottages. The Bullers is really a collapsed cave, with the outer arch remaining. You can walk right round the hole, across the arch, if you have good head for heights, and it's not blowing a gale. It's also a good spot for all the auks, and gulls and no doubt attracts migrants from time to time.
9 Meikle Loch and Collieston
See map of Ythan Estuary below. Meikle Loch is a large sheet of water accessed by a rough track off the A 975 Newburgh - Cruden Bay road at NK033305. There is no signpost and it is close to a blind bend. Parking is at the end of the track, at the water's edge. Approach slowly to minimise scaring the birds off to the far side of the loch. There is room for three or four cars with care. You may find you will see more if you resist the temptation to get out of your car. It is always worth a visit at any time of year, and has a good record of turning up rarities.
Nearby Slains Pool (see map) is currently dry. Whenever it is wet, it can hold some interesting birds. Just be careful parking on the verge.
Cotehill Loch is another place worth a look, although this is awkward due to a lack of parking places and the southerly aspect. It too has produced many scarce birds over the years.
Collieston is a reasonably good spot for sea watching. The car park provides a useful spot, although the view out to sea is a bit narrow. You may do better from the top of the adjacent knoll.
10 Haddo Country Park
This is a large country park run by Aberdeenshire Council. There are extensive areas of woodland, and two lochs, all linked by marked footpaths, mostly wheelchair friendly. There are a couple of hides, although I think the design leaves a lot to be desired. A great place for a family day out. Haddo House itself belongs to the National Trust for Scotland and is well worth a visit (guided tours available) as is their tea room. Tell Kate I sent you .
11 Ythan Estuary
This is arguably the premier birding site in north east Scotland, if it's waders and wildfowl you're after. Of course, other rarities turn up regularly in the surrounding area. All the birds mentioned can be seen in the appropriate season, with spring and autumn passage being the peak times. I'll begin with a map of the area, showing the locations of the places which I am about to describe.
Let's start at the upstream end, at Logie Buchan Bridge. This bridge is now closed to vehicles, and is best approached from the north side. There is room to park a car at the bridge, but please don't block any access. There are extensive reed beds lining the river, with occasional Bearded Tits, Marsh Harrier and Kingfisher seen.
Moving downstream, we come to the Waulkmill hide. The access track is about 200m long, and narrow, with no passing places, so you might have to be good at reversing if you're unlucky enough to meet another car. The Forvie Burn has produced Kingfishers. I prefer to park just short of the hide, and view from the car. There is space for two or three vehicles here. The hide itself is not very appealing, mainly because it faces south west, so unless you are there in the morning, you will be squinting into the light.
(update 03.07.09) The hide is now in a poor state. The wooden shutters are broken, and the floor is covered in litter.
This is a good place to see Ospreys, either fishing, or perched on the fence posts on the far side, 500m away. The most I have seen at any one time is 5. A telescope is useful here. Other scarce birds I have noted include 2 Avocets, and Bar-headed Geese. There is an extensive gull roost, and there will normally be lots of swans, waders, plovers and ducks.
There are two lay-byes opposite The Snub, the topmost one is a good picnic site. Neither is accessible to minibuses or campervans, due to the height and width restrictions. When leaving the topmost lay-by, it is advisable to use the exit at the top end. The other exit is very close to a blind bend, on what is a very fast road. The shoreline here seems particularly good for Greenshanks, as well as large numbers of Redshanks, Curlews and Lapwings. It's another good Osprey fishing spot, and double figure counts of Grey Heron are common.
It is possible to park, with care, on the verge opposite a row of cottages, to look at Inch Geck, the principal high tide roost. Beware of passing traffic.
There are car parks at both sides of Waterside Bridge. The one on the north side has access for larger vehicles, but not the one on the south side. From here, it is worth taking a walk along the shore in both directions. The car park on the north side gives access to the path network on the Forvie National Nature Reserve. This is a very large area of heather and grass covered dunes, and makes an interesting walk. The southern part is home to a large nesting colony of Eiders, with the sandier parts being home to a large colony of terns. There is no access to these areas during the nesting season. The terns can be easily watched from the opposite shore, indeed they are plentiful throughout the whole estuary.
One of the easiest places to view the birds on the estuary, is at The Inches, at the end of Inch Road. Drive slowly along the road, checking the Foveran Burn as you go, through a builders' yard, and park at the very end. Towards high water, lots of Eiders are present just 10m from you. They make good photographic opportunities, as long as you stay in your car. If you get out, they will shuffle reluctantly off into the river.
The estuary from Waterside Bridge down to the sea is a popular fishing spot, with most of the activity taking place from July to September, on a falling tide. Also, high water can be popular with windsurfers, so remember to check tide times before your visit.
The car park nearest the sea is accessed by the road to the golf course, at the south end of Newburgh. There is no access for large vehicles. From the car park, you can walk towards the river mouth by way of various tracks and paths through the extensive gorse bushes. These are good for finches, buntings and warblers. Alternatively, you can take the boardwalk that heads south up to a viewpoint, and then into the sand dunes. The Foveran Bushes are a regular migrant trap. At the river mouth, there will often be seals hauled up onto the far shore, or bobbing about in the river. This can be a good place to watch skuas harassing the terns. The only downside I have found to birding near the river mouth, is the number of dog walkers, and on a fine day, lots of people using the beach.
12 Balmedie
Balmedie Country Park: sand dunes, beach, car parks, toilets. Trees and bushes around the car parks can be good for autumn migrants. Don't go on a fine day - there will be far too many people.
13 Blackdog
The access road is sign posted from the A90 dual carriageway (not Blackdog Industrial Estate). Follow it to the small car park at the end, then walk back and down towards the beach. There is some scrub and a small pool on the way, worth a quick look. The sea at Blackdog has a summering population of scoters, both common and velvet, with occasional surf, also a large flock of Eiders and gulls. The dunes are good for larks and chats.
14 Bridge of Don
The best place to park is on the esplanade, where it runs parallel to the river. The area is designated a Local Nature Reserve, and there is a hide overlooking the river estuary. It can be surprisingly good. The bushes around the river mouth and across the road at the edge of the golf course are migrant hotspots. It is also worth going further up the river. Cross at the bridge, and follow the path on the south side high above the river, towards the historic Brig o' Balgownie. Then almost opposite where you reach the public road, there is a gate in the wall which leads you further along the river, and on to Seaton Park. The whole place is good for wintering ducks and woodland birds.
15 Tyrebagger
This is not a place I have visited very often, but it should be good. There are extensive coniferous plantations (crossbills) open hillside with scrub, on Elrick Hill and Brimmond Hill to the south. There is a good path network, with several car parks, and a sculpture trail. It can get a bit busy especially at weekends.
16 Loch of Skene
Lying 10 miles ( 16km ) to the west of Aberdeen, on the A944, The Loch of Skene is a shallow, almost circular sheet of water covering about one square kilometre. The easiest place from which to view it is on the north shore, where two tall granite towers mark one of the entrances to Dunecht House. There is a large parking area in front of them. *A new notice has appeared, saying Private Car Park. One of the towers is occupied, so please park with consideration. From the car park, go through the arch, and turn left to reach the water's edge. *Access to the roof of the boat shed is no longer possible. The loch can also be watched from the east shore. A minor road runs north-south from Garlogie to join the A944. There is a pull-in with space for two or three cars where the road runs closest to the loch. A track leads from there to the shore, a distance of 150m or so. The loch is worth a look at any time of year, but most activity seems to be in the winter, when there are large flocks of grey geese, and wintering ducks in the area. There is also an impressive gull roost, with birds flying in by the thousand at dusk to spend the night on the water. Shooting takes place in the winter, and sailing in the summer, so expect some disturbance.
*(updated 19th October 2008)
17 Cullerlie
There is a small pool at the roadside which is always worth a look. It is situated on the B9125 at NJ758026. It attracts passing waders, and in the winter holds large numbers of ducks, mainly Teal. Rarities have turned up here from time to time. There is another pool about 700m to the north, viewable at some distance (scope essential) from a minor road to the east of it. It too has produced some good birds. At the time of writing (August 2008) there is a flooded field opposite Westerton Farm, where a Wood Sandpiper and Green Sandpipers were present this spring. It also is attractive to ducks and commoner waders.
18 Tarland
In 2007, a new wetland area was created about a kilometre east of Tarland, on the road to Coull. There is a small hide overlooking the pool and wet grassland. Already it has attracted birds such as Grey Plover (an unusual inland record), Black-tailed Godwit, Green Sandpiper, and breeding Lapwings and Redshanks. In the winter, flocks of mainly Pink-footed Geese come and go. Spring and autumn are the best times for seeing passage waders. To be honest, I wouldn't go far out of my way to visit the place, but if you are in the general area it is worth spending an hour or so to see what turns up. It is certainly a very peaceful spot and you are likely to have the hide to yourself. (Unless I am there of course)
19 Lochs Davan & Kinord
These two adjacent lochs offer a full days birding, There is a network of paths round Loch Kinord, and Loch Davan can be viewed quite well from the B9119 where it runs close to the north shore. Parking is available at several points: Dinnet crossroads, (NO 459 988), Burn o' Vat, on the B9119 (NO 429 997) and at New Kinord (NO 450 000). The area is a National Nature Reserve, managed by Scottish National Heritage (SNH). There is a short wheelchair usable path from the car park at Dinnet crossroads to the smaller Clarack Loch.
The main attraction for birders is the variety of waterfowl on the lochs, with the biggest concentration in autumn and winter. The woodland, mainly birch and alder, has all the usual species.
20 Dinnet Oakwood
This is one of the very few oakwoods in north east Scotland. It is situated on the South Deeside Road (B976) half a mile from Dinnet. There is room to park one car at the entrance, directly opposite the bridge over the Dee, or with care at the roadside on the Dinnet side of the bridge. Don't upset the angling fraternity - they have paid a lot of money to fish there . It is probably best to visit the wood early on a spring morning, when you should see Redstart, Wood Warbler and Pied Flycatcher. With a bit of luck - they are not plentiful! It's a small wood, so take your time and wander slowly keeping your eyes and ears open.
21 Glen Tanar
Take the south Deeside road (B976) westwards from Aboyne bridge to the Bridge o' Ess, then follow the road up Glen Tanar for 2.5km to the pay and display car park. From there, consult the information panel and decide which walk you fancy. The forest further up the glen is one of the remaining fragments of the native Caledonian pine wood. It is reputed to be a good place to see crossbills, but I have usually been disappointed. Still, it is a beautiful place for a walk.
22 Girdleness
Girdleness is regarded by many as the premier birding site in north-east Scotland. True, it boasts an impressive list of rarities seen over the years, possibly helped by the fact that it is a well watched spot. It is very accessible by car and public transport, and is within walking distance of the bus and rail station in Aberdeen. Its main claim to fame is its attractiveness to migrants, both spring and autumn. Sea watching can also be good at the appropriate time of year.
Starting at the city end, the south shore of the navigation channel is worth a look for waders, while the steep vegetated bank is attractive to migrant passerines. Halfway along the channel is The Sycamore, a tree of moderate size that has held many a rare bunting or warbler down the years. As long as the leaves are still on the tree it can be frustrating to watch, but if there are reports of something unusual, it is worth persevering. Above The Sycamore, alongside the road, are The Allotments, another migrant trap. The allotment holders are quite accustomed to birders admiring their flowers and vegetables, whilst hoping to spot that elusive rarity. You can walk right round, to get a view from all sides. The whole headland is dominated by Balnagask Golf Course, itself always worth checking.
Moving round clockwise, you will come to The Battery, a disused fortification and part of the city's history. On the outside of the walls is a mixture of gorse (mostly burned, which doesn't seem to matter to the birds), brambles and willow herb. All of it should be carefully searched. A word of warning now. The area is a popular place for dog walkers, and consumers of carry out meals. The mess and litter is a disgrace, but don't let that put you off.
Greyhope Bay has a large car park, with a very awkward entrance and exit. The rocks below the car park are good for Purple Sandpipers in the autumn and winter, and Sandwich and other terns in summer. Divers (loons) often use the bay, and Dolphins can sometimes be watched just offshore. In front of the lighthouse, between the road and the sea, is the old foghorn, affectionately known as the Torry Coo. It is the usual sea watching point. Sea watching here can be either excellent or fruitless, and seems to vary from day to day. There are always good numbers of Eiders anywhere round the headland. Behind the lighthouse is the Walker Park, a large walled area of turf that has attracted scarce buntings and larks over the years. It is always worth a check. Beyond the Walker Park, the area of gorse between the golf course and the road is known as the south bank. It is a more sheltered spot in a northerly wind, and can be good for migrants. Finally, the Bay of Nigg is another spot to hold good numbers of waders, with a convenient car park.
23 Cove Bay
Cove Bay is 5 km south of Girdleness by the coast road. Cove Community Woods is a useful place for migrant passerines in the autumn. Park as best you can at the entrance gate at NJ 943 004, and follow the path until you see mature trees, mostly sycamores, on your right . Explore the area carefully if you suspect there may be migrants about.
24 Fowlsheugh
RSPB Fowlsheugh is a renowned place for nesting seabirds, with the peak activity from April to July. The reserve is well signposted from the A92 south of Stonehaven. It is not wheelchair accessible, and I would not advise a visit with young children. The cliffs are not protected in any way, so always take great care. The main species are Herring Gulls, Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Razorbills and Guillemots, all in impressive numbers. There are also a few Puffins, and your best chance of seeing them is at the northern end of the cliffs, beyond the end of the maintained path.
25 St. Cyrus
There is a National Nature Reserve about 5km north of Montrose, signposted from the A92, just north of the bridge over the River North Esk. There is a visitor centre with toilets and information about the place. Some of the paths are wheelchair friendly. You could spend a whole day here, watching a variety of birds from the Fulmars on the cliffs, warblers and chats on the scrubby dunes, and ducks divers and grebes on the sea. The potential is great. And the beach is nice too.
26 Dun's Dish
This is not a place I have visited often, but it has a good reputation for waders and other water birds. Access from Damside farm at NO 646 614. Please park sensibly.
27 Montrose Basin
Montrose Basin is second only to the Ythan estuary for birding in north east Scotland, and I suspect some members of the Angus and Dundee Bird Club will dispute that! A good starting point is the Scottish Wildlife Trust visitor centre, off the A92 on the south side of the Basin. There is lots to see from the centre, in a dry cosy environment. If you prefer to do your birding in the open air, there are a number of options. Head west from the centre, bear right onto the A934 (signposted to Forfar) then after just over 1km turn right at Maryton and follow this minor road for 1.5km to Old Montrose. Immediately after crossing a small bridge, turn right onto a rough track, past a house, to a small car park. From here you can walk along the raised bank by the edge of the Basin for about 500m to the gloriously named The Lurgies. Across the river is a small muddy channel, which goes by the name of The Slunks. Continuing by car round the Basin in a clockwise direction, turn right at Barnhead, right again at Bridge of Dun just after crossing the railway bridge, thence to the car park on your left at Mains of Dun. From here, there is a walk of about 1km to each of two hides. There is a map in the car park. From the car park, having visited the hides, you can carry on to the A935, turn right and return towards Montrose. Just before you come to a railway bridge, there is a turning off to the right which leads to a small car park, at Tayock. This area is at the time of writing being developed. The final useful watch point is at Rossie Island. Immediately before the huge Ferryden roundabout, turn right, past a garage, under the railway viaduct, and follow the track to a rough car park on your right, by the sailing club buildings.
The Basin as a whole can be good at any state of the tide, but obviously the birds will mostly be further away when the tide is out, so two hours either side of high water is probably the optimum time.
28 Lunan Bay
Heading south from Montrose, there is a maze of minor roads which give access to a number of good birding sites. Ferryden, Usan, Boddin Point are all worth a look. Next comes Lunan Bay, a long wide sandy beach backed by dunes. The sea is a good place for ducks and divers in season, and there is a gull roost at the mouth of the Lunan Water. The car park is signposted near where the road crosses the river.
29 Arbroath
Arbroath is a bustling fishing port, with a good record for white-winged gulls in winter. The rocky foreshore both north and south of the harbour holds good numbers of waders, and is easily accessible from the promenade.
30 Carnoustie
The beach is quite good for waders. Take the path westwards, along the edge of the sea, past the famous golf course, and you will come to one access point to Barry Buddon.
31 Barry Buddon
Barry Buddon is an army camp and firing range, and access is restricted. Obey the red flags please or you will be chucked out. Or possibly shot. When access is permitted, it is a good place for migrants as well as the commoner species to be found on scrubby rough ground.
32 Monifeith
The car park on the sea front is at the other end of Barry Buddon. There is a good high tide roost just within the firing range but visible from the edge with a scope.
33 Monikie Country Park
Typical country park, good facilities, good potential for birds. From the car park, head south for the best birding
34 Crombie Country Park
Much the same as Monikie, with the added bonus of a longish walk right round the reservoir on a woodland path.
35 Rescobie & Balgavies Loch
These two lochs are linked by a small stream, and both hold good numbers of waterbirds, and typical woodland species. Balgavies (pronounced Bal-guys) has a path right round the perimeter, and a small car park and a hide at the western end.
36 Murton
A recently opened reserve with controlled access. If it's open, it might be worth a visit.
37 Forfar Loch
A gem of a place, even allowing for the inevitable disturbance that goes with a country park so close to town. Ducks, grebes and gulls are plentiful on the loch, and woodland birds abound in the trees and bushes. If you are feeling energetic, take the path all the way round the loch. It's level and wheelchair friendly. Parking is at the east end of the loch, by the north east corner.
38 Loch of Kinnordy This RSPB Reserve is situated near Kirriemuir, in Angus. It is well worth a visit at any time of year, and not only for water birds. There are three hides, the Gullery hide is 50m from the car park, the Swamp hide and East hide both under 300m, but in opposite directions from the car park. The Swamp hide even has upholstered benches. There is a feeding station between the car park and the East hide. Both Swamp hide and Gullery hide are wheelchair accessible, and the paths are pushchair friendly. Unless there is a special event taking place, or a mega rarity has been seen, you are quite likely to have the place to yourself. All the hides are big enough to allow easy use of telescopes. Kinnordy is of national importance for wintering Whooper Swans, with numbers at times approaching 100. For more information, visit the website http://www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/l/lochofkinnordy/index.asp
39 Lintrathan Reservoir
Scottish Wildlife Trust has a hide at NO 286 552, and an older one at NO 280 554. Both hides are at the shallow end where the birds congregate. Swans, ducks, grebes, gulls, waders are there in large numbers, especially in the autumn and winter. Like Kinnordy, this is also a place of national importance for wintering Whooper Swans. A public road runs right round the loch although views are a bit restricted much of the way.
40 Backwater Reservoir
The top (shallow) end is best. There is a car park overlooking the loch here (toilets in summer). Ducks and swans are usually around in winter. It might not be the most productive place for birds, but the setting is magnificent.